SEMESTER 3 – PROGRAM ELECTIVE -TEXTILE DESIGN

SCREEN PRINTING

Our first class we discussed about screen printing, and were told to research about it .

Screen printing is just an elaborate, highly developed form of stenciling that can be traced all the

way back to the cave paintings of our Stone Age ancestors. Cave men must have figured that if

they use a leaf with some sort of colorant , and put them on the wall, they could use them as a

way of drawing a certain shape without the drawing part.In the middle ages, stencils were used as

a cheap method to mass produce playing cards.Wallpaper became chic early on in the 17th

century, and stencils were used to help decorate the elegant homes of the rich and famous.

Stencils were also used in the flocking process to transfer glue in the shape images onto paper,

which was then sprinkled with wool dust to reveal embroidery-like designs.Meanwhile, a process

was developed in Japan and China that used silk held between two pieces of strong, waterproof

paper with stencils cut in them. The paper was glued together, leaving the silk exposed to allow

the paint to flow through. Slowly but surely, the screen print was being born.

Screen printing today is arguably the most versatile of all printing processes. It can be used to

print on a wide variety of substrates, including paper, paperboard, plastics, glass, metals, fabrics,

and many other materials. including paper, plastics, glass, metals, nylon and cotton. Some

common products from the screen printing industry include posters, labels, decals, signage, and

all types of textiles and electronic circuit boards. The advantage of screenprinting over other print

processes is that the press can print on substrates of any shape, thickness and size. 

Screen printing consists of three elements: the screen which is the image carrier; the squeegee; and ink. 


The screen printing process uses a porous mesh stretched tightly over a frame made of wood or metal.
 
 Proper tension is essential to accurate color registration. The mesh is made of porous fabric or stainless steel mesh. 
 
A stencil is produced on the screen either manually or photochemically. 
 
The stencil defines the image to be printed in other printing technologies thiswould be referred to as the image plate.
 
Many factors such as composition, size and form, angle, pressure, and speed of the blade(squeegee) determine the quality of the impression made by the squeegee
A screen made of a piece of porous, finely woven fabric including silk, polyester or nylon is

stretched over a wooden or aluminum frame. Areas of the screen are blocked off with a nonpermeable

material (a stencil) which in turn is a negative of the image to be printed.

The screen is placed on top of a piece of paper or fabric. Ink is placed on top of the screen, and a

rubber blade is used to spread the ink evenly across the screen. The ink passes through the open

spaces in the screen onto the paper or fabric below; followed by lifting of the screen. The screen

can be again be re-used after cleaning. For multiple colour screen printing on the same surface,

the ink is allowed to dry and then the entire process is repeated with another screen and different

colour of ink.

Screen printing technique make use of and is compatible with a variety of materials, including

textiles, ceramics, metal, wood, paper, glass, and plastic. It is this quality that allows this printing

technique to be used in different industries, from clothing to product labels, fabric labels to circuit

board printing etc.

 

Project Title: Expressions, Broken yet Better!

“There is a crack, a crack in everything. That’s how the light gets in”

Description: In this project we learnt to create forms & iterate to create a textile repeat aligned to market expectation in terms of print.

Method: Discussions of the project and its relevance, significance, application and expected outcome –This could be anything stitched/ unstitched/ accessory/scarf/stole/ a detached collar/shrug/shawl/ with finishing in lace/crochet/border or in raw edges.)

 

Kintsukuroi is the Japanese art of fixing broken pottery with lacquer resin dusted or mixed with powdered gold, silver, or platinum. The Japanese art of Kintsukuroi, repairs broken pottery with seams of gold. This repairs the brokenness in a way that makes the object even more beautiful than it was prior to being broken. It is a long and difficult process, but the results are treasured by those around it. Uplifting and hopeful, it is an inspiring metaphor for dealing with the times we feel broken in life. It’s a reminder to find the gold to mend ourselves.

Kinstukuroi method briefly states that, what is important is, not the cause of destruction of the object but that beautiful symbol/event that has occurred in the life of the object. And also, how that symbol has taken up by many people in their own beautiful way to create something even more beautiful, and enchanting.

 

Similary , in class we broke a glass bottle and studied the glass pieces and drew forms according to our study .

 

 

 

We looked at the outline and cracks o the glass pieces and drew the forms .

 

 

According to these forms .We learnt to do repeats .

Our first repeat was horizontal repeat .

Repeat - Horizontal repeat 
Size - 3'X3'
colour- 1-2
Age- 18-21
End use -Scarf

 

I first chose the form and the traced it . I used a single black colour to finish my repeat .

IMG_2142

 

REPEAT - vertical repeat 
Size- 4.5'X4.5'
colour -2
Age- 25-30
end use - shirting img_9928-e1506278854310.jpg

 

Repeat - Corner repeat
Size- 4.5'X4.5'
Colour-1
Age-30
End use -scarfimg_8345.jpg

 

Repeat 4- straight repeat
Size- 6'X6'
Colour- 4
Age-18-21

 

Repeat - All over repeat
Size- 9'X9'
Colour-4
Age- teens
End use - dress
Trend-print direction - in the jungle ss18
Screen Shot 2017-09-25 at 12.43.17 AM

 

Repeat - alternate repeat
Size- 6'X6'
Colour-4-6
Age-3-6
End use - tshirt 
Trend - oriental prints ss2018
Screen Shot 2017-09-25 at 12.53.56 AM
img_2447.jpg

 

Repeat - Diagonal repeat
Size- 6'X6'
Colour- 4-6
Age- 9-12 unisex
End use - tshirt
trend - print direction - orbital 
Screen Shot 2017-09-25 at 12.53.49 AMIMG_3798

Repeat - brick repeat
Size- 6'x6'
Colour-4-6
Age- 25-30
End use - tie 
trend - paisley obsession

Screen Shot 2017-09-25 at 1.02.54 AM.png

img_8932.jpg

Repeat - Mirror repeat
Size- 6'X6'
Colour- 1-2
Age- 18-25
End use - hankerchief
trend - patchwork sripes
Screen Shot 2017-09-25 at 1.08.38 AM

img_7676.jpg
Repeat - jaal repeat
Size- 6'X6'
Colour- 4-6
End use - bed sheet 
form - kalamkari inspired 
img_4482.jpg


Repeat - Cricle  repeat
Size- 6'X6'
Colour- 4-6
Age- 25-30
End use - shawl 
trend - fragmented flowers a/w 17-18

Screen Shot 2017-09-25 at 1.23.36 AM.png
img_0084.jpg

Repeat -Diamond  repeat
Size- 6'X6'
Colour- 4
Age- 18-25
End use - jacket 
trend - wild conversations a/w 18-19Screen Shot 2017-09-25 at 1.07.56 AM


img_9476.jpg
Repeat -Ogee repeat
 Size- 9'X9' 
Colour- 6-8 
 End use - Furnishing 
Form - floral default
Repeat -Cross repeat 
Size- 6'X6' 
Colour- 6-8
Age- 25 - 30 
End use - Cardigan 
Trend - Pale garden a/w 18
Screen Shot 2017-09-25 at 9.37.02 PM

IMG_6668

Digital print 
Trend - kabuki kingdom Screen Shot 2017-10-09 at 9.20.22 AM

kabuki kingdom moodboardScreen Shot 2017-10-13 at 3.01.27 PMScreen Shot 2017-10-13 at 3.02.00 PM

 

I made a second choice for digital print as  was not satisfied with the first outcome . I used my learning from this class and used it in a project for my creative technical class . Getting inspired by the Japanese illustrations on their garments depicting  their daily life   , I made my print based on the city i live in and the modern life .

 

Screen Shot 2017-11-10 at 6.47.45 PM

Block repeat
Size -6″x6″
colour – 1IMG_4514

Project 2

STENCIL

History

The use of stencils dates back over 37 thousand years, as evident in Neanderthal cave art found in Spain. These paintings are outlines of hand prints; it is theorised that Prehistoric man or woman would place their hand against the wall, and then blow finely crushed pigment around it. These stencils were accompanied by shapes from the natural world and daily life: animals, hunting scenes, and ritual all figure prominently.Over time, the use of stencils spread throughout the ancient world. Many of the detailed drawings and intricate art found in Egyptian tombs or along the walls of the city of Pompeii were results of stencils. Stencilling was a simple and well-thought-out way to reproduce the same pattern over and over again.

The Chinese were the first to develop a paper-based stencil, around 105 AD, and used the invention to advance their printing techniques. Soon, stencilling made the transition to cloth and colourful patterns were transferred onto garments. The Japanese improved upon the technique by bonding delicate stencils together with human hair or silk. Their method of dyeing fabrics with stencils is known as Katazome, and used the paste resist method. With this technique, a paste (usually composed of rice flour) is pushed through a stencil, defining a pattern on cloth. The places where the sticky paste adheres to the cloth resist colour in the dyeing process, therefore creating a negative stencilled design on the fabric.

Stencilling eventually spread to Europe, thanks to the trade routes from the East. The technique of stencilling became quite popular, and was used to add colour to master prints. Stencils became handy in mass productions of items, including manuscripts, playing cards, book illustrations, fabrics, and wallpaper.Immigrants brought the use of stencilling with them to the New World, and once again the technique was employed in a variety of ways and new styles were developed. Stencils were used as decoration in the home, on furniture, and in works of art. Stencilling once again became popular for architectural designs in the early 20th century, as craftsmen took advantage of mass-produced designs from an array of periods, including Renaissance, Victorian, and Art Deco.

This stenciling style can still be found in public buildings, churches, and homes.

The key advantage of a stencil is that it can be reused to repeatedly and rapidly produce the same letters or design.Stencils may have been used to colour cloth for a very long time; the technique probably reached its peak of sophistication in Katazome and other techniques used on silks for clothes during the Edo period in Japan. In Europe, from about 1450 they were commonly used to colour old master prints printed in black and white, usually woodcuts.[3] This was especially the case with playing-cards, which continued to be coloured by stencil long after most other subjects for prints were left in black and white.[4] Stencils were used for mass publications, as the type did not have to be hand-written.

 

For stencil printing , I took the theme of sea creatures and underwater life .

I drew the stencils , cut them and then experimented on different fabrics .

 

My Hit and trails

 

Final stencil and stencil prints

 

My final garment

 

Block Printing

 

Screen Printing

We gave a repeat for screen printing as a class .

2017-11-13-PHOTO-00000983 2

Reflections

I learnt the ability to think visually and create forms according to words and emotions through the kinstukuroi glass breaking experiments . I learnt the technical aspects of how a print comes to be on a fabric , straight from the ideation to how to convert it, through the trip to kalaniketan. I learnt how to balance requirement of a project brief and the aesthetic of the print .

I learnt different forms of printing and how their final outcomes are different . I learnt how paint acts on different fabrics and how the textures come along.

Overall this  course gave me an Insightful experience in textile and different printing techniques .